Don't turn up your nose! Canned fish can be surprisingly tasty if you know how to use it.

RODALE NEWS, EMMAUS, PA—Wild-caught fish is a tasty source of protein, low in saturated fats and high in health-promoting omega-3 fatty acids. But it's not exactly sustainable, considering that most wild fish stocks are grossly over-harvested, nor is it cheap, unless you know where to shop—in the canned fish section of your supermarket! Canned, and these days "pouched," fish is an incredible deal: modestly priced, fully cooked, shelf-stable, and packed in manageable, no-waste, no-fuss sizes, even single servings.

Of course, with any canned food, problems inevitably arise related to the hormone-disrupting plastic bisphenol A (BPA), which is used in the epoxy linings of nearly all canned goods. This harmful chemical, linked to a variety of ailments (from hyperactive behavior in children to heart disease in older women), is best avoided at all costs. Fortunately, sustainable seafood companies have been working to find replacements for BPA-based can linings: Vital Choice and Wild Planet Foods have both removed BPA from most of their product lines, and those pouches, made from plastic sandwiched between layers of foil and used by other, more mainstream companies, are BPA free as well.

While on the topic of canned-fish caveats, I also generally avoid canned tuna. Though tuna melts and tuna casseroles were nutritious, inexpensive staples during my childhood, tuna is best left swimming in the ocean, both from an ecological standpoint and because it's high in mercury. If you simply must have it, albacore tuna caught on the Pacific coast of the mainland U.S. and Canada are more abundant and lower in mercury than other tuna; look for American Tuna brand as well as tuna sold by the sustainable seafood companies listed above.

Satisfying Salmon

So what canned fishes are OK to eat, and what can you do with them? After tuna, the next-most common and versatile canned fish is salmon. According to Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch, wild-caught Alaskan salmon is the most sustainable type to look for. (Though even wild Alaskan salmon face many challenges, including attempts to produce and spawn genetically engineered salmon and gold and copper mining near Alaskan coasts that could pollute the fishes' waterways.) I’m especially fond of Chicken of the Sea’s 3-ounce pouches of Premium Wild-Caught Alaskan Smoked Salmon, and larger cans of salmon are even more economical, provided the cans are BPA free. If you want to ease your family into enjoying the slightly different taste, try mixing salmon half-and-half with one of the aforementioned brands of albacore tuna for a few runs. Canned salmon often contains skin and bone, both of which are edible and packed with nutrients, such as calcium.

Toss canned salmon into a pasta salad, sprinkle it over a green salad to make it a meal, or mold it into "salmon burger" patties for a sit-down meal. Below are a few other ideas, and check the Rodale Recipe Finder for more serving suggestions.

Quick Salmon Bagel Sandwiches Mash a 3-ounce package of smoked salmon, juice and all, into 2 to 4 ounces of organic cream cheese or soft goat cheese, and spread on your choice of bagel (whole grain if you can get it).

Salmon Salad Substitute salmon for tuna in your favorite tuna salad recipe, and spread it on whole-grain bread or over a bed of mixed greens. Try adding a few finely diced green olives for variety.

Tasty Tiny Fish

By definition, the most sustainable fish are those that are harvested when they are small and those that reproduce quickly, allowing their populations to rebound. One such fish is the oft-maligned, lowly Pacific sardine.

Sardines are actually various kinds of small fish in the herring family. Wild-caught sardines from the Pacific (not those in the Atlantic or Mediterranean) are among the most sustainable and healthful fish on the market; they're rich in omega-3s and vitamin D, without all the mercury. Fresh or frozen sardines are sometimes available in fish markets, but the vast number end up in tiny cans, usually packed in oil and sometimes in mustard or spicy tomato sauce. I prefer the kind packed in olive oil.