organic eggs

Organic Eggs: Worth the Cost? Yes!

A recent Time magazine article got it wrong when it proclaimed organic eggs are no healthier than factory-farmed eggs, and here's why.

By Emily Main

Topics: omega-3 fatty acids, organic food


Look for the USDA Organic seal, and find a local farmer who can attest to healthy living conditions for his poultry.

Don't be mislead: There are good reasons to choose organic eggs.

RODALE NEWS, EMMAUS, PA—Organic eggs are no healthier than factory-farmed eggs and are thus not worth the extra costs, concludes an article running in a recent issue of Time magazine. But the article's author is missing some major benefits of organic eggs—such as the fact that they're higher in omega-3 fatty acids, are free of antibiotic residues, and contain no arsenic, which is added to factory-farmed chicken-feed to prevent infections and spur growth.

The article was based on a new U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) study finding that different production methods—factory-farmed, cage-free, and free-roaming—all met the same quality standards. Yet, the author's conclusions that organic eggs are no healthier than conventional, and that the way they're raised is dangerous and not worth the added cost, run far afield of the research, misinterpreting the study's primary finding.


More advice about eggs:
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Latest on the August egg recall: Egg Recall Expanded to Two Farms and Over 30 Brands of Eggs
Raise your own egg-layers: What's the Best Chicken for You?
Whip up a soufflé: Soufflé-Making Tips and 5 Great-Tasting Recipes

Here's how Time missed the boat and gave rotten egg advice:

#1: The test used in the USDA study is a measure of egg quality, not nutrition. The study used something called the Haugh unit, a scale between 0 to 110 that basically lets producers know whether or not the egg is stale (the lower the number, the lower the quality). To measure Haugh unit, an egg is broken onto a flat surface, where the height of the yolk and thickness of the egg white are measured, says Alissa Maloberti, director of egg product marketing at the American Egg Board. Fresh eggs have taller upstanding yolks and more compact whites, while older eggs have runner yolks and thinner whites. The Time article made the assumption that Haugh unit is somehow indicative of nutritional value, when in fact, the USDA's definition of Haugh unit mentions nothing about an egg's nutritional content. "It's more of a visual test to gauge the sample quality," says Maloberti. "It has no bearing on nutritional value at all." While it is true that organic eggs and factory-farmed eggs are on par with levels of protein and other vital nutrients, studies have found that organic eggs are far higher in heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Recent findings from Penn State University revealed that organically raised chicken eggs had three times more of these healthy fats than their confined counterparts, along with 40 percent more vitamin A and twice as much vitamin E.

#2: "Free-roaming" and "cage-free" aren't the same as "organic." The USDA study didn't specify organic as one of the production methods they studied, but the author continually refers to "organic" eggs as though the authors had. Unlike "USDA Organic," "free-range" and "cage-free" are unsubstantiated claims that aren't verified by independent third parties—any producer can slap those labels on a carton of eggs without any evidence that his or her chickens roam free or live outside cages. To find out which labels to trust, and which to ignore, read our story on how to find the healthiest eggs.

Yes, Jean Nick!

Yes to all Jean Nick wrote!

Eggs, milk, and meat are areas where the "organic" moniker hardly matters. Confinement egg laying factories where the birds only get organic grain are only a tiny bit better than ordinary confinement egg factories.

Same for dairy and meat, particularly for ruminants (beef, chevon, mutton) whose digestive systems were not intended for grain, no matter how organic that grain may be. If a ruminant is not getting the majority of its food from green plants, the meat or milk product is not healthy for you!

A better test than the Haugh test would have been the "yolk colour test." I don't have any metrics, but just by looking a a yolk, I can tell if the hen has been raised on grain or if it has been on pasture. The "yolk colour test" does not depend on a small door that chickens don't use -- the colour in the yolks comes from beta carotene found in leafy greens.

So if the yolks aren't bright orange-yellow, the hens aren't actually eating greens, even if their owner claims they are organic and have access to pasture. Pale, pastel-yellow yolks, deficient in beta-carotene and healthy fats, can come from so-called "organic" hens as well as from hens fed chemical poisons!

Not all organic eggs are more nutritious

It is true that all organic eggs are free of antibiotics and arsenic and lower in persistent pesticides, but very few organic eggs are raised on pasture -- so the studies showing that eggs raised on pasture have higher levels of omega-3s and other important vitamins and nutrients (and incidentally lower levels of cholesterol) do not apply to the majority of organic eggs on the market.

Organic certification for laying hens requires the have "access" to the outdoors, not that they actually ever go outside. The vast majority of organic laying flocks run around loose on the floor in huge warehouse sized barns: at the end of the barn there is a small door, which opens onto a small fenced yard. This qualifies in market-speak as "free range." The USDA inspector who visits our farm once a year says the grass in those access yards at the big organic places he visits is so clean and green that it is obvious that no hen has ever dared set foot outside onto it, and it kills him to have to sign off on the requirement as fulfilled (he always has a big smile on his face as he watches our girls scratching contentedly all over their pasture).

So buy organic eggs because they have no antibiotics, no arsenic, and no persistent pesticides in them -- and because growing chicken food organically is much safer for the farmers, farms, and communities that grow it -- but if you want higher nutrition you will have to ask questions and seek out really, truly free range or "raised-on-pasture" eggs at your local farm, Farmers Market, or health food store.

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