country of origin labels

USDA Takes Baby Step Toward Better Food Labels

Only some foods will carry new mandatory country-of-origin labeling.

By Leah Zerbe

What you can do

Learn the ins and outs of COOL; buy organic and shop at farmer’s markets.

RODALE NEWS, EMMAUS, PA—As of September 30, we have a better idea of where in the world at least some of our food comes from. Some items, mainly produce, unprocessed meats, and some nuts, are now required to carry a country-of-origin label, also known as COOL. While grocery stores and other food retailers have always known where their wares were grown or raised, they’re now required to share that info with you (at least for some food). This is particularly helpful for produce, since only 1% of imported produce is inspected for contamination and pesticide residue. So now you have a better chance of avoiding tainted edibles by deciding whether you trust where the food came from.

THE DETAILS: The law establishing mandatory labeling covers beef, lamb, pork, goat, and chicken meat; fresh and frozen fruits and vegetables; peanuts, macadamia nuts and pecans; and ginseng. These regulations were part of the 2008 Farm Bill, which offers clarifications from the 2002 Farm Bill. These are praiseworthy improvements, says Patty Lovera, assistant director of watchdog group Food & Water Watch. “They also set strong standards for which meat can bear a ‘product of the U.S.’ label,” says Lovera. “The animals have to be born, raised and slaughtered in the U.S.”

WHAT IT MEANS: COOL is a step in the right direction, but it’s not enough. One major shortcoming in the new law is the USDA’s exemption of processed foods from COOL regulation. That’s actually very uncool, since they’ve defined “processing” as including steps like cooking, roasting, smoking, and the addition of one other ingredient. That excuses pork products, lots of frozen vegetables, and 95 percent of nuts from labeling requirements. Frozen foods containing two types of vegetables are also excluded from COOL, as are those popular premixed, bagged salads.

But it’s a start. Until the next round of labeling improvements, we suggest taking these steps:

• Be a farm-market Norm. Just as everyone at Cheers knew Norm Peterson, become such a regular at your local farmer’s market that everybody knows your name. You can find out what farming practices your growers follow—organic is the gold standard—and because locally grown food doesn’t pass through as many hands as that from gigantic corporate farms and processing plants, your food is likely safer. Buying as much local, chemical-free whole food as possible also reduces the food mileage, processing and packaging, and pesticide production that contribute to global warming.

• Avoid mystery meat (and unmarked fruit and veggies). If there’s no COOL on your meat or produce, pass it by.

• Tell your grocery store to play it COOL. “Consumers should tell the store where they shop that they want COOL for as much food as possible, even where not covered in the law,” says Lovera. If grocery stores don’t respond, spend your money somewhere else. Online sites, like the Eat Well Guide can help you find alternatives.

• Dodge repeat offenders. Which countries are most likely to export tainted food? It’s a complicated question, and each of us needs to determine our own comfort level. To help, here are the countries with the highest violation rates in the FDA’s Pesticide Program Residue Monitoring between 2004 and 2006:

• Spain
• Peru
• Guatemala
• China
• Dominican Republic

Similarly, these commodities had the highest violation rates during the same period:

• Paprika, whole
• Celery, dried or paste
• Arrowhead (root/tuber vegetable)
• Ginseng (in herbal and botanical tea and non-tea items)
• Basil (sweet)

• Always buy organic, but especially avoid chemically grown versions of these twelve produce items, found by the Environmental Working Group to carry the most pesticides: peaches, apples, sweet bell peppers, celery, nectarines, strawberries, cherries, lettuce, grapes, pears, spinach and potatoes.